>>6
Download a trial and update your perception of Dreamweaver, it uses CSS for everything by default and has for at least the last two or three versions. Granted, it generates really generic style names (".style1", ".style2") if you blindly use the formatting bar, but it's a good tool for getting the basics of a page down fast before later tweaking, as well as identifying specific elements of a page with that super-handy little tag tree thing down the bottom, amongst other niceties. I can appreciate that it's best to learn how to memorise every CSS property and HTML character entity code before writing a line of code for a new page, but to paint Dreamweaver as some sort of table-creating completely opaque bloated monster is inaccurate and ignores its benefits in terms of productivity, not to mention its qualities as a tool for learning more about (X)HTML and CSS.
It's not the best solution in all cases, but in conjunction with other tools and resources it works for me, and I think it'd be a good idea for someone like the OP who I assume knows the basics of webpage creation but needs coaching on the rest.
By the way, I kinda question your allegiance to "nice pure perfect handwriten code" if you believe layout tables are a necessary evil anymore. I'm pretty sure most people who write code have figured their way past that already.